Celebrating Warm Salads Through History

On the Menu at the Food History Cafe:

Warm Salads for the Fall

Emma’s Hot Bacon Salad
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Curly Play on Salad Frisee (Frisee aux Lardon , with a poached egg)
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Mesclun Salad
with warm onion dressing Benedict
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Dandelion Salad
With Hot Bacon Dressing, Potato and Boiled Egg
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Warm Butternut Squash Salad
with pears, Black Beans, Boiled egg,
and Hot Apple Cider Dressing

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Here is one of a recipe for a warm salad from an English cookbook around the time of Richard the II.

From a 14th century English Cookbook A Forme of Cury `

This is a recipe for a warm salad and you can translate some of the items, like onions, leeks, borage, mint, rosemary, fennel and in the directions you can see that someone has translated the words to warm and brown.

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Salad with Hot Bacon Dressing

My Grandma Block in the Kitchen

The Hot Bacon Salad has a special place for me because it was the standard salad served in individual small wooden salad bowls that my grandfather made on his lathe.

Emma’s Hot Bacon Salad

I used this as my house salad at my restaurant in Bend, Oregon, and was always very popular. I am not sure where my grandma learned this but was probably from the old world, given it’s popularity in Europe. In the north especially cured and smoked meats were a staple as they needed to put up food for the long winters.
Also they heartier greens like kale’s, Cress, Coss (Romaine) Endive can withstand the cold fall temperatures in the ground.

Curly Play on Salad Frisee

Frisse aux Lardon is a salad you can find in French Bistro’s especially in Lyon, France often called a gastronomic center of France. French peasant farmers also grew hearty lettuces that could withstand the fall temperatures. I love the poached egg on top.

Salad Frisee with Curly Endive
Lyon, an der Saône, Eglise Saint Georges
Herbert Frank from Wien (Vienna), AT

Frisee is a type of Endive that has a bittersweet flavor, and those flavors that is different than a curly endive, and lighter yellow in color. The classic Lyonnaise way to make this salad is to fry thick bacon pieces with shallots add, some red wine vinegar, toss in the frisee and serve it on a plate with a poached egg.

The French have a long history of salads that was adopted from the Romans that served mixed greens, oil, vinegar and often a brine , hence the name Salad derived from the word salt.

Here is a nice video from Cafe Petit Trois doing a classic Frisee Salad also called Salad Lyonnaise

Warm Mesclun Salad with Onion Dressing Benedict

Warm

This takes the salad with poached egg one step further and uses hearty Mesclun Greens and a warm onion dressing, served on an English muffin with Canadian bacon, poached eggs and Hollandaise. I purposely left out the bacon on this one as if you are vegetarian you can enjoy this salad just as much. (Sans canadian bacon)

Dandelion Greens with Hot Bacon Dressing, Boiled Potato and Egg

Dandelion Greens with potato and Egg Salad

This is a wonderful blend of flavors, Greens, Potato and Egg salad. Dandelion is actually a great tasting Green, but it needs a bold dressing, and the hot bacon or hot onion vinaigrette is perfect.

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Warm Butternut Squash Salad
with Black Beans, Pears, Boiled Egg
and Hot Apple Cider Dressing

Warm Butternut Squash Salad

Some Links to Warm Salad Recipes I think look Cool

Warm Cauliflower and Herbed Barley Salad

Cauliflower Corn Grits and Eggs with Red Eye Gravy

I had no country ham so I opted to make this dish for the Cafe. I really wanted to keep the Red Eye Gravy in the American nomenclature and explore it’s possibilities.

I found this a wonderful combination, and the cauliflower adds so much to the flavor of the grits, as does the bacon and onions.

Serves 2

For the Grits:
Ingredients:
2 cups water
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 cups cauliflower rice

Red Eye Gravy
and Garnish:
5 strips bacon
1 purple onion sliced
1 teaspoon Paprika
1-2 teaspoon Black pepper
1 cup coffee
1 cup water
Chicken bouillon
4 eggs

First I got the grits cooking. Bring the water to a boil and add the ingredients and let simmer and stir until it thickens. Turn down to way low. Next I fried the 5 strips of bacon, and chopped up 1 purple onion. I have some nice bacon fat and caramelized goodies stuck to the bottom of the pan.

I wanted to give more flavor to the red eye gravy than bacon fat and coffee. So I fried the onions in the bacon fat and the ground pepper in the bacon fat to bring out more pepper flavor. I added paprika mainly to give it a nicer color but the extra flavor with a good paprika is nice also.

Then I chop the onions and one of the strips of bacon….

added it to the grits. It really made the grits taste wonderful.

Next I added the coffee and water to the drippings and bring to a simmer.

Add the chicken bouillon to the gravy, it gives really gives the background body for the coffee and bacon flavors to shine.

I am very happy with this red eye gravy that is a nice balanced flavor.

Next I poached the eggs. I could have fried them but I wanted to minimize the fat in this dish and it all went to the gravy and grits.

To plate this dish I made a mound of grits, dimpled it and filled it with gravy.

Then I topped the grits with 2 eggs and a spoonful of gravy over each.
Garnished it with some bacon and a bagel thin, and some radish microgreens for garnish.

Clancy’s Buffalo Breakfast Quesadilla and Buffalo Pizza

Clancy’s Buffalo Breakfast Quesadilla

Clancy’s Buffalo Pizza

Ingredients:
8 oz Turkey Sausage
1/2 cup onions
Sweet or hot peppers
Frank’s Hot Sauce Seasoning
1 egg scrambled
Celery Strips
Microgreens
Blue Cheese Dressing
Blue cheese crumbles
Grated Cheddar cheese
2- 8 inch Tortilla

Substitute for Frank’s Hot Sauce Seasoning
1/4 teaspoon of each;
Cayenne pepper
garlic powder
salt and pepper

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

One of the key elements of Buffalo Chicken Wings is the celery Sticks and blue cheese dressing . All I had was some limp celery so we needed to fix this. First I peeled the celery, as I often do with the outer ribs to get rid of the tough strings.

Then I cut thin diagonal strips and put them in ice water. Cutting on the diagonal means that you have a lot of against the grain surface so it is tender and not fighting long strings.

Add 1 /2 cup water into a pan and add the sausage in small chunks. Continue to cook it until the water evaporates and the chunks brown a bit.
Then add the onions and peppers and Frank’s hot sauce seasoning.

For the base I use a blue cheese dressing then add some of the sausage mix, blue cheese crumbles, and cheddar cheese.
I had some green onion already chopped so I added that and the scrambled egg in chunks. I browned the tortilla in the cast iron skillet on medium heat.

Then it goes under the broiler to brown the top tortilla.

You can also flip it and cook the other side but that is tough sometimes. I will often put a second frying pan on top then turn both over so it falls in the other pan.

Lift up the top tortilla and add the celery strips and microgreens. I then cut into quarters with a scissors.

For the pizza I do the same as the Quesadilla except no egg.


Top the pizza with celery strips and microgreens and some blue cheese crumbles. For color I added some cherry tomato halves just cause I think it needed color.

I cut the pizza into quarters with a scissors. So much easier than a knife.

Warm Potato and Green Bean Salad

From the Alice’s Restaurant Cookbook

16 ounces tiny new potatoes
8 ounces regular green beans or French green beans
2 to 3 ounces red onion ( 1/2 cup chopped)
1 tablespoon olive oil 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon salt.

1. Scrub potatoes; do not peel. Cover with water, and boil in covered pot until tender, about 20 minutes.

2. Wash green beans and trim ends.

3. Chop onion.

4. In a bowl large enough to hold potatoes and green beans, whisk the oil, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard and anchovy paste. Add onion.

5. Five to seven minutes before potatoes are cooked, add the green beans. Cook until beans are tender but still crisp.

6. When the potatoes and beans are cooked, drain them. Cut the potatoes in quarters and the beans in half. Stir into dressing. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and serve.

Above is Alice’s direction, but I used a different style by heating the beans and potatoes in a skillet, because the beans were blanched a day before.

I saute the onions in the oil instead of putting it in the dressing. I put plenty of pepper in as well. We like it very peppery.

Add the potatoes and beans and the dressing and heat to warm.

Yield: 2 servings.

Approximate nutritional analysis per serving: 370 calories, 8 grams fat, 2 milligrams cholesterol, 310 milligrams sodium, 8 grams protein, 70 grams carbohydrate.

File:Stockbridge-alices-restaurant.jpg

Banana’s Foster

And Banana’s Foster Crepes

Banana's Foster from Brennan's
Banana’s Foster from Brennan’s
Bananas Foster Crepes

Bananas Foster is special by the flavor produced when the dark rum, banana’s and brown sugar combine in an exquisite way. It is unforgettable and you can’t say that about every dessert It was created by Brennan’s restaurant in New Orleans in 1951

I wanted to make the filling it at least close to the original Brennan’s version, this I found at The Chew

Ingredients:

Brennan’s Banana’s Foster

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) Butter
1 / 2 cup Brown Sugar
1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon
2 tablespoons Banana Liqueur
2 Bananas (cut in half lengthwise; then halved)
1/4 cup Dark Rum
2 scoops Vanilla Ice Cream

My Additions:
Vanilla extract, vanilla bean, you may substitute vanilla extract and ground cinnamon, vanilla bean , Also some whipped cream.

Ingredients for the Banana's Foster
Ingredients for the Banana’s Foster

1. Combine the butter, sugar, and cinnamon in a flambé pan or skillet. Place the pan over low heat either on an alcohol burner or on top of the stove, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.

Bananas in pan
Saute Bananas

2. Stir in this banana liqueur, then place the bananas in the pan. When the banana sections soften and begin to brown, carefully add the rum. Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, then tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum. 

Flaming bananas
This is what it would look like flaming
Bananas done
Banana’s Done

3. When the flames subside, lift the bananas out of the pan and place four pieces over each portion of ice cream. Generously spoon warm sauce over the top of the ice cream and serve immediately. 

Crepe Recipe

2 cups milk.

2 eggs
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter melted
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt.
3/4 cup flour sifted

Crepe

1.Mix all ingredients well and let sit for 30 minutes to help blend.

2. Ladle out about 1/2 cup of batter into a medium hot 12 inch pan that you have melted a little butter, and spread around.

3. Spread the batter out as thin as you can get it with a rubber spatula you can push the batter towards the edges.
Cook until it is nicely browned on one side then loosen all edges and flip it over and cook for just 10 seconds.

4. Slide the crepe out of the pan and on to a plate and repeat the steps till you have 4 nice crepes.

5. Divide the filling between the 4 crepes leaving some for garnishing the top.

Jerk Chicken Fajita

This is a blend of two cultures. Coming from Jamaica and from Mexico , In Jamaica where the Jerk spice mix comes from is one of the most delicious blend I think that is out there. It combines the sweet allspice (pimenta)and others with a more French style herbs I would say like thyme and the good basic seasonings of garlic, and chilies.

The key is in the marinade for the flavor

Ingredients:

Marinade:
Lime juice
Pineapple juice
Worchestershire
Cumin
Chili powder
smoked paprika
Oregano
Jerk seasoning
Cilantro
Jalapeno
Garlic

1 lb Chicken Breast
1 Onion, 1 inch dice
2 Bell Peppers, colored, 1 inch dice
8 Tortillas

Guacamole:
2 Avocados
1 clove Garlic
1 slice Onion
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1 tablespoon Lime juice
1 heaping tablespoon yogurt
1 tablespoon chopped Cilantro (optional)
1 teaspoon Jalapeno

Combine the ingredients of the marinade in a stainless bowl.

Cut the chicken breast into smaller pieces to get more surface area exposure to the marinade, then place it in the marinade. Let sit for 30 min to 6 hours.

Remove chicken from the marinade and dry off.
BBQ the chicken and the vegetables in a vegetable basket.

Slice the Chicken and warm the tortillas.

Add a little guacamole(recipe follows) and we had a bit of chipotle dressing that we used as well.

Add the garlic, onion in a molcajete

Add the salt and grind with the pestal till it is well minced.

Add the lime juice, yogurt, jalapeno and cilantro. I start with half a lime then add more if I think it needs it after it is blended. Add more salt if needed.

Smoking Valentine Rum Punch

This was so much fun, experimenting with the 5 basics of a punch and see what you come up with.Too make this drink more exciting we added some dry ice and had a fun smokey celebration of Valentines.

The basics laid down centuries ago in India and the Indies and spread by the sailors.
1. Spirits = Vodka, Vanilla Vodka, Meyers Jamaican Rum
2. Sweet = Maraschino cherry juice
3. Sour = lime
4. Spice =vanilla, caramel flavor of Jamaica rum spice, (Meyers brand Rum has a particularly deep caramel flavor),Maraschino cherry juice which has an almond flavor.
5. water =ice

Here is the recipe
3 oz Vodka
3 oz Vanilla Vodka
1 1/2 oz Meyers Jamaican Rum
Squeeze of lime juice
Splash of Maraschino cherry juice
a small chip of dry ice

We added everything but the cherry juice in a shaker and we also added a chip of dry ice in the shaker so when you get a nice smoky pour that is dramatic

Here is a video we took pouring the Smoking Rum Punch

Vintage Punch Recipes

The British and other Sailors that experienced a drink in India during the heavy spice trading time, called Pancha ….or a similar spelling which means 5 in Hindustani. Pancha Bhoota represents the 5 basic elements of life and also……..Pancha….later became “Punch”.

The 5 Basic elements of Punch are…

Water

A Spirit (usually Arrack a funky rum )

Citrus

Sugar

Spice

‘ Bantam Punch

1668 from the book The English Rogue, Continued, in the Life of Meriton Latroon and Other Extravagants. by Richard Head , yes that was this authors real name Richard Head

This punch was from the 1600’s and some of the ingredients are unfamiliar to me but It is fun to read about what the sailors were drinking then. It is the basic 5 item punch style except it has this seasoning from a sperm whale bluber called Ambergis, tha

to read about it go here Here are the ingredients

Batvia Arrack

This is a rum like spirit and the wonderful description and history is here at Drink Dispatch

This is called Ambergis and comes from a Sperm Whale and simplified it is clotted fat.

Lime juice

picture by prosthetic head

license

Nutmeg

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Rum Punch circa 1770


The peel of 8 Oranges and 8 Lemons in 1 quart of rum. 3 Gallons of Water boild with 3 lb. of loaf Sugar and the Whites of 8 Eggs. 2 and 3/4 pints of orange juice and 1 and 3/4 Pints of Lemon juice. strain the quart of rum from the Peel and add one Gallon more of rum to rest of the ingredients.” 
A Colonial Plantation Cookbook: The Receipt Book of Harriott Pinckney Horry, 1770, [South Carolina] edited with an Introduction by Richard J. Hooker [University of South Carolina Press:Columbia SC] 1984 (p. 139)

Buffalo Breast Wings

This recipe is not really a wing but what the wing is attached to, the breast. The combination of fried wing parts, in a vinegary hot sauce and served with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing goes back to the Anchor Bar restaurant in Buffalo New York.

More on the history of Buffalo Chicken Wings here

This is a bit leaner of a dish using the breast meat .

For an equivalent amount of chicken wing with the skin, your looking at about 20 grams of fat versus 1.5 grams of fat. This is if your sticking to about 4 ounces of raw chicken. The wing has the skin but the breast doesn’t.
check it out here

Ingredients:
serves 4
1 lb chicken breast (boneless and Skinless)
1 cup white flour mixed with salt and pepper
2 cups canola oil

Sauce:
1 cup Frank’s Hot Sauce ( may substitute another brand)
1 /4 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon each Sesame Seeds, white and black
1 tablespoon minced onion flakes
1 teaspoon granulated garlic


Garnish:
2-3 per person celery sticks
1 cup sunflower shoots
8 ounces Blue cheese dressing

Frying Chicken Breast

Directions:
pre heat oven to 400 degrees F
1. Cut the Breast meat into wing like pieces.
2. Bread lightly in breading mix and let stand 1 minute
while you heat the oil in frying pan to medium heat. Test by dropping in a bit of flour to see if it sizzles.
3. Shallow fry the wings in oil till brown, then remove to paper towel to remove excess oil. Then place in large stainless bowl.
4. Add the hot sauce then vinegar to the bowl of wings and toss to coat well.

Buffalo Breast Wings on sheet pan with seasoning

Buffalo Breast Wings on sheet pan with seasoning


5. Place breast pieces on baking sheet
6. Mix the sesame seeds, garlic and onion together and sprinkle on the breast pieces.
7. Bake for 15 minutes till the sauce is set.
Serve with celery, sunflower shoots, and blue cheese dressing.

Poor Knights of Windsor

Why does Most of Europe Name it after a Poor Knight?

These Knights of Windsor represent those retired miiitary from centuries past, often poor and were given lodging in Windsor Castle. One of heir jobs was to pray for the king and the military to be successful in battle.

So how did a dish like French Toast get named “Poor Knights of Windsor”?

“French toast is a dish we have borrowed from the French, who call it “pain perdu”, or lost bread…It is known in England as the poor knights of Windsor, which is the same phrase used in many countries: “fattiga riddare” in Sweden; “arme ridder” in Danish; and “armer ritter” in German. One theory about how the latter name came about goes as follows: In olden times, one of the symbols of distinction between the gentry and the common herd was that the former were expected to serve dessert at dinner. Knights, of course, were gentry. But not all of them were rich. Those who were not, in order to maintain their status, made do with “armer ritter’,” often served with jam.”
—Craig Claiborne’s The New York Times Food Encyclopedia [Times Books:New York] 1985 , Craig Claiborne (p. 178)

Another from A Taste of History, explanation for the Poor Knights was that in the 1346 battle of Crecy in France, many knights had been captured and needed to sell their estate for their release. Edward the 111 gave them housing in Windsor castle in trade for labor around the palace.

1658 Recipe for Poor Knights of Windsor
Original Receipt in ‘The Compleat Cook’ by ‘WM’, 1658 (WM 1658)

To make poore knights.

Cut two penny loaves in round slices, dip them in half a pint of Cream or faire water, then lay them abroad in a dish, and beat three Eggs and grated Nutmegs and sugar, beat them with the Cream then melt some butter in a frying pan, and wet the sides of the toasts and lay them in on the wet side, then pour in the rest upon them, and so fry them, serve them in with Rosewater, sugar and butter.

Penny Rolls

These are penny rolls, centuries ago in England they were a penny a piece. I couldn’t find any so I made my own with dough about a golf ball size, let it rise to double it’s size, then bake.

Cut the end crusts off the penny rolls. Add the Sherry or white wine like I did and sugar to the milk.

Pour the milk into a baking dish that is about the size of the penny rolls. Put in the rolls and let them soak up the milk. Flip them and let them soak up the remaining mix.

To the eggs I grated a bit of nutmeg in it. That is a keeper idea. I like it better than cinnamon.

Then heat your skillet on medium low and melt the butter. I used a cast iron skillet but you can use what you like. I just caution not to use to high a heat or you will burn the butter. Next dip the penny rolls in the egg………

Then put them in the skillet and brown.

Flip them over carefully. I use 2 implements. In this case a thin turner and another cake spatula but you can use a rubber one it doesn’t matter. Lift up the toast with one implement, then you can slide your turner underneath a bit. Then steady the other end like in the picture and slide the turner the rest of the way underneath. pick up the toast and flip still using both implements,

When the other side is browned a bit combine the left over egg and milk mixture and pour into the pan. You can then cover it and finish cooking or you can finish it in a hot oven (400 degrees F) or broiler if you watch it close. It should take only 5-10 minutes to finish cooking.